Happy January 1, 2019! Thought I’d begin the year with something seasonal, local, tasty and nourishing. Something to keep you warm this time of year. Celeriac and apple soup.
You’ve probably come across or, perhaps, bypassed, celeriac (aka celery root) at your local farmers’ market or grocery store during the winter months. It’s that rather odd-looking, hairy root vegetable. I’ve always made it my mission to seek out peculiar and unfamiliar vegetables. Perhaps a reflection of myself, that is, strange and unusual š®
As you’ve probably guessed, celeriac is in the same family as celery, though is cultivated solely for its round and knobby root. It’s also a bit milder in taste, less celery flavor, than your standard stalk of celery.
Once you peel away its tough outer skin, celeriac is actually quite versatile. It can be eaten raw in salads or slaws; roasted; turned into a mash, fries, fritters or a gratin; or used in the classic French preparation of a remoulade, grated celeriac mixed with a combination of mayo, mustard, and spices. The celeriac leaves are also edible. After a bit of internet search, I learned that you can wash the leaves, dry them in the oven (350F for 5 minutes or so) until crisp, and crumble them with salt to produce an incredibly fragrant condiment (a must try).
Celeriac also makes a nice addition to soups. Celeriac and apples are a classic pairing. The tart-sweetness of the apples balances the earthiness of the celeriac. The mild, delicate, sweet, onion-y flavor of the leek rounds it all out. I photographed this celeriac and apple soup for Taste Cooking (formerly Taste Book) a few years back. Their version calls for a pinch chile — piment dāespelette or smoked paprika. A sprinkling of fresh chives might also be nice.
Celeriac and Apple Soup
Recipe by Alana Chernila from Taste Cooking
Makes about 1Ā½ quarts
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1Ā½ cups sliced leeks
Ā½ cup roughly chopped onion
Ā¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
Ā¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 medium tart apples (such as Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and quartered
1Ā½ pounds celeriac, peeled and cubed
4 cups water
Ā½ cup whole milk
Freshly ground pepper
For serving: piment dāespelette or smoked paprika
Heat the butter and olive oil together over medium heat in a large pot. Allow the butter to brown, just slightly. Add the chopped leeks and onion and cook, stirring often, until soft and shiny, about 5 minutes. Add the salt, nutmeg, and garlic and cook for another minute.
Add the celeriac, apples, and water to the pot. Cover and raise the heat to high. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples and celeriac fall apart, 30 to 40 minutes.
If you have an immersion blender, stick it into the pot and blend until smooth. Otherwise, transfer to an upright blender in batches and return to the pot. Add the milk, and taste to adjust salt and add pepper. Serve with a healthy dusting of piment dāespelette or smoked paprika.
