Was doing some research for an article on grain-based Mediterranean soups when I came across farinata di cavalo nero (kale and polenta soup). I was instantly intrigued. Essentially, an Italian [Tuscan] porridge-like soup made with polenta/cornmeal and kale, more specifically Tuscan kale, also known as lacinato or dinosaur kale. And since, for some reason, I had several open bags of cornmeal on hand (several of which were buried deep in the freezer, some in the fridge), it made my decision even easier. Most of the other ingredients I had on hand, including some fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme) still growing out in the garden. It seemed like one of those perfect nourishing, fall soups.

The verdict: It tastes like Italy [Tuscany] in a bowl. It’s the epitome of hearty, yet simple. Its ingredients are humble, yet somehow they all come together to produce a whole lot of flavor — the embodiment of cucina povera; a cuisine of ingenious creativity, utilizing a variety of simple ingredients and techniques in oder to make every bite of food as tasty as possible.

Like anything else, there are variations. Some recipes include white beans (usually mashed with some beans left whole), some call for potatoes. Some include pancetta, some lard (or simply olive oil for a vegetarian/vegan version). Various herbs in the form of rosemary, thyme, and/or basil may find their way into this soup. Also, while you could reserve the leftover bean-cooking liquid to cook the polenta, I had some homemade chicken stock in the freezer, which I defrosted and, not surprisingly, added extra richness. This is a dish that can be readily adapted to meet your taste and whatever you have in your pantry.

Lastly, all that’s needed is a drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil and freshly grated Pecorino and/or Parmesan to finish the soup.

Kale never goes out of style…

A food mill, potato masher, mortar and pestle, or, perhaps, just the back of a wooden spoon, comes in handy for mashing the beans…

Kale and Polenta Soup (Farinata di Cavolo Nero)

Serves 4
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 thick slice pancetta, around 1/8th pound, small dice, more if you like
1 carrot, peeled, small dice
1 celery, small dice
1 medium onion, small dice
2-3 cloves of garlic, minced
Sea salt
1 tablespoon tomato paste
6 ounces chopped kale (weight after stems are removed)
7 cups chicken or vegetable stock (or reserved bean cooking water), more or less as needed
Cooked beans (instructions below)
1 cup coarse  polenta
Fresh herbs, rosemary, thyme
Red pepper flakes to taste
Good quality extra virgin olive oil for serving
Parmesan and/or Pecorino, freshly grated, for serving

Add olive oil to a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add pancetta and sauté a few minutes until it renders its fat. Add the carrot, celery, onion, and a pinch of salt and sauté until tender and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and stir another 2 minutes. Add the kale, cover, and cook until just wilted. Add 6 cups of stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and stir in the smashed beans.

Slowly stir in the polenta, whisking continuously until the all the polenta is combined. Add a handful of chopped herbs, pinch of red pepper flakes, and pinch of salt. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, stirring often. Add more stock as needed so that that the polenta has a loose porridge-like consistency (I ended up adding another cup, a little at a time).

Continue simmering and stirring for about 45 minutes until the soup is thick and creamy. Add the reserved whole beans and some more fresh chopped herbs and stir to combine and simmer another minute or two. Season, adding more salt or red pepper flakes to taste.

Ladle into bowls and drizzle each bowl with olive oil and a sprinkle of grated cheese. Serve immediately.

For the beans

1 cup dried white beans (such as cannellini or barlotti), soaked overnight
2 whole cloves of garlic
1 small onion, quartered
Few sprigs fresh herbs, such as sage, rosemary, thyme
Sea salt

Put the beans into a large pot and cover with 8 cups of water. Add the garlic, onion, and fresh herbs. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 ½  to 2 hours, until tender, seasoning with salt towards the end of the cooking time. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid.

Set half of the beans aside. With a food mill, potato masher, back of a wooden spoon, or mortar and pestle, mash the other half of the beans to form a rough paste. Note: the mashed beans will be added earlier on in the soup cooking process, while the whole beans will be added toward the end.