What the heck are Garganelli?

Sounds like a scary mythical creature of sorts.  Actually, what keeps popping into my head is this character.  But of course it must have something to do with food.  If you haven’t already guessed, garganelli are hand-rolled pasta shapes, similar to penne, made using a board called a pettine.  Although I have accumulated my fair share of kitchen gadgets over the years, a pettine is not [currently] part of my collection.  Although, next time I’m in Italy, I intend to track one down.  So, next best thing, improvise.  In place of a pettine, you can use a gnocchi board or even a clean hair comb with 1 1/2-inch long teeth or so.  It won’t look completely authentic, as the ridges on a pettine are much finer than that of a gnocchi board, but close enough.

Wanted to do something a bit different than your typical red sauce to pair with my homemade garganelli.  After a trip to Sicily a few years back, have developed an appreciation for sun-dried tomatoes.  Not surprisingly, sun-dried tomatoes have an intense, concentrated tomato flavor.  In addition to olive oil and fresh herbs, added some Marcona almonds to the sun-dried tomato pesto.  Interestingly, when mixed with the pasta, the pesto has an almost meaty taste and consistency (beyond the pieces of lamb sausage I added).  Quickly blanched broccoli rabe (aka rapini), a handful of cherry tomatoes, and it all comes together to produce one tasty bowl of pasta.

I know it must seem as though I have way too much time on my hands, preparing pasta from scratch.  But once I get an idea in my head, there’s just no turning back.  No contemplating the pros and cons, just full speed ahead.

Rolling out pasta by hand is time consuming, period.  Perhaps, more of a weekend endeavor.  However, time-permitting and provided you’re up to the task, it’s quite enjoyable and rewarding.  Once you get the pasta rolled out, it’s actually quite easy.  Just cut the pasta into squares (don’t worry if they’re not perfect squares, we’re going for rustic here), roll it over the pettine or gnocchi board, and voila, homemade garganelli.  And, one of the great things about homemade pasta is that it’s so incredibly fresh; it takes just a minute or two to cook, so you save a bit of time on the back end. 

You don’t actually have to make a well and knead by hand.  You can use a food processor or mixer with a dough hook.  However, I prefer to mix by hand, imagining this is how it would be done if I were watching my Italian grandmother (that is, if I had an Italian grandmother).  Nonetheless, sometimes it is fun to put technology aside, roll up your sleeves, and get your hands a little dirty.  Plus, you may not need all the flour such that combining the eggs and flour by hand permits you to adjust the flour as you go.

I used half semolina and half 00 for this batch.  Semolina, a coarser grind of high-protein durum wheat, is a bit tough to work with, but I like the texture it gives to the pasta when cooked.  Or, if you prefer a more delicate pasta, use all 00 or all-purpose flour.  I’ve also made batches with half whole wheat and half 00 (or all-purpose) that turned out nicely.

Of course, you can substitute with your favorite shape, for example, penne or orecchiette, of store-bought pasta.

Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto, Garganelli, Broccoli Rabe

serves 4
1 bunch broccoli rabe
2 links [such as lamb] sausage, cut into ~ 1/2-inch pieces
1 recipe homemade pasta (recipe below) or 8 ounces store bought pasta, such as penne or orecchiette
1 pint cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
Sun-dried tomato pesto (recipe below)
Red pepper flakes to taste
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Drop the broccoli rabe into the boiling water.  After a minute and using tongs, remove the broccoli rabe and plunge into a bowl of ice water.  Drain and squeeze the water out of the broccoli rabe.  Roughly chop into bite-sized pieces.  Set aside.  Return the water to a boil.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat.  Add the sausage and saute for few minutes, until browned.  Add the tomatoes and saute a few more minutes.  Add the garlic and saute for another minute.  Meanwhile, drop the fresh pasta into the water.  After a minute or two, taste a piece, it should be al dente (if using store bought pasta, cook until just al dente).  With a slotted spoon transfer the pasta (along with a little of the cooking water) into the skillet with the sausage and tomatoes.  Add the reserved broccoli rabe.  Add desired amount of sun-dried tomato pesto (I added about 1/2 cup) and mix to combine.  Season with red pepper flakes, salt and pepper to taste.

Additions: Sprinkle with some chopped Marcona almonds and fresh basil leaves over the finished dish.

Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto

makes 1 cup
1 cup packed sun-dried tomatoes
1/2 cup basil packed
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup chopped almonds (used Marcona almonds), plus extra for garnish
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
Red pepper flakes to taste
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Fresh basil for garnish, roughly torn

Combine all ingredients in a food processor.  Pulse a few times until well incorporated but still a little chunky.

Top with fresh basil and chopped Marcona almonds.

Note: The pesto can be made in advance and stored a couple weeks in the fridge.  Just place in a glass jar and cover with a little olive oil.

Garganelli

1 cup finely ground semolina flour
1 cup 00 or all-purpose flour
3 large eggs or 4 medium eggs at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil (optional) 
Pour the flour on to a work surface, shape it into a mound, and scoop a hollow in the center.   Break the eggs (and olive oil if using) into the hollow.  Beat the eggs lightly with a fork.  Draw some of the flour over the eggs, mixing it in with the fork a little at a time, until the eggs are no longer runny.  Draw the sides of the mound in with your hands (you may not need all the flour).  Work the eggs and flour together, using your fingers and palms of your hands, until you have a smooth integrated mixture.  If it still moist, work in more flour.

Continue kneading with the heel of your palm for 8 to 10 minutes until very smooth.  Form into a ball, cover with plastic, and let rest for 1 hour.

Unwrap the dough and cut into six pieces.  Take one piece and wrap the rest in plastic wrap.  Set your pasta machine to the widest opening.  Flatten the first piece of dough with the palm of your hand and run it through the pasta machine.  Set the pasta machine to the next smaller opening and run the dough through the machine again.  Set the pasta machine to the next smaller setting, and repeat until fairly thin (rolled to number 6 on my pasta attachment).

Cut the dough into 1 1/2-inch squares.  Using a dowel or pencil, roll the pasta square on the gnocchi board, as pictured above, until you form a tube.  Repeat with the remaining dough (place the garganelli in a single layer so they don’t stick together).