I’ve been binge listening to the Splendid Table podcast with Francis Lam. If you like food and stories about people and food, then this podcast will be right up your alley. After each episode, I want to immediately go out and load up on ingredients and cook everything that I’ve heard/learned about.

That’s how I came across the recipe for smashed cucumbers, or pai huang gua, a Sichuan dish that entails smashing a cucumber [in this case, with a rolling pin]. A gentle smash will do the trick; you’re looking to flatten the cucumbers a bit and naturally split them lengthwise. It’s a crisp and refreshing dish that packs a punch of flavor and is a snap to pull together. Perfect for this time of year, as cucumbers are just coming into season.

While you can use any long, crisp variety of cucumber, I’m fond of a long, spiky Chinese cucumber, which I believe is the suyo long variety. It’s got a nice snap to it, a hint of sweetness, and not too many seeds. Something to keep your eyes open for.

The other key ingredient is Chinese Zhenjiang/Chinkiang black vinegar, an aged vinegar made from rice, sorghum, peas, barley, bran and/or chaff. While you might be tempted to swap out the black vinegar for another type of vinegar, I urge you to seek it out. You can find it at most Asian grocers and online (ideally, look for black vinegar that is free of added colorings and artificial ingredients).

Black vinegar has such a unique flavor — a little sweet, acidic, malty, with caramel-y notes. It also has many uses in Chinese cooking, for instance, it makes for a nice addition to a dipping sauce for dumplings.

I like to finish off the smashed cucumber salad with a drizzle of homemade Sichuan chile oil (as I love a good kick of heat).

Because I wanted to make a meal of it, I served the smashed cucumber salad with a spicy tofu dish. The tofu is quickly marinated in a combo of tamari, lemongrass, garlic, chile, turmeric and a hint of sugar and then cooked in a hot wok or skillet until golden and then tossed with plenty of fresh Thai basil and chopped, roasted peanuts.

Both dishes are on the lighter side and quick and easy to prepare, yet filling and decidedly satisfying. Lots of flavor to entice the taste buds!

This is the Chinese suyo long variety of cucumber (below); I found at my local farmers’ market…

Smashed cucumber salad with Sichuan chile oil…

Spicy tofu with Thai basil and peanuts…

Smashed Cucumber Salad

Adapted from The Splendid Table
2 English cucumbers (although, I prefer this Chinese cucumber variety)
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced to a paste
1 tablespoon soy sauce (or tamari)
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar (used coconut sugar)
1 teaspoon sesame seeds, toasted
Sichuan chile oil or chile flakes (optional)

Using a rolling pin, gently smash the cucumbers until flattened and split lengthwise into 3 to 4 spears each. Tear spears roughly into 1 to 1 1/2-inch pieces. Transfer to a colander/strainer and set over a large bowl. Toss cucumbers with salt and let drain for at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the black vinegar, garlic, soy sauce/tamari, sesame oil and sugar into a bowl and whisk until the sugar has dissolved.

Drain any extracted liquid from the cucumbers and transfer the cucumbers to a serving bowl. Toss the cucumbers with the dressing and sesame seeds. Serve immediately with drizzle of Sichuan chile oil or chile flakes if desired.

Spicy Tofu

Adapted from Vietnamese Food & Cooking
3 lemongrass stalks
3 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
1 to 2 red serrano or jalapeno chiles (or substitute red finger long chiles); more or less depending on desired heat
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons sugar (used coconut sugar)
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 block firm tofu, cut into cubes
2 tablespoons oil
3 tablespoons, chopped roasted peanuts
1 bunch Thai basil

Remove tough outer leaves of the lemongrass. Finely mince. Combine the lemongrass, soy sauce/tamari, chiles, garlic, sugar and turmeric in a bowl. Add the tofu and toss to combine. Let marinate for 1 hour.

Heat a wok or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the oil. When hot, add the marinated tofu. Cook, stirring often, until the tofu is golden on all sides. Add the peanuts and most of the basil and toss to combine.

Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the remaining basil leaves.