Since I have a very small backyard garden space, I decided to plant/grow whatever would yield the most bang for the buck. That inevitably translated into (mostly) herbs, ones that I use on a daily basis — thyme, oregano, rosemary, (Thai) basil, mint, chives, sorrel and cilantro. I also grew a few herbs that I like to steep for tea, holy basil (aka tulsi) and lemon balm. In addition, there are a few random ‘weeds’, namely purslane, that are completely edible and tasty. As a former apartment dweller (with no outdoor space) — for most of my adult life — it’s great to be able to step outside and snip a few leaves when needed. While there’s a bit of an investment up front to gardening, it’s a gift that keeps on giving.

I planted shiso in my garden bed last summer (2017). It grew like a weed. Had so much of it that I didn’t know what to do with it all. This year, the shiso returned with a vengeance. It’s growing everywhere, even in the cracks between the cement. I keep pulling it out so it doesn’t suck up all the nutrients and kill everything around it, but within days it’s growing anew.

A little background on shiso. It’s in the mint family. It’s commonly used in Japanese cooking — as a garnish for fish, rice, soup, sushi, and vegetable dishes. You might also see it referred to as “perilla.” Its flavor is interesting, unlike any herb I’ve tried before. It has notes reminiscent of cinnamon and clove. It’s a little bit floral. It’s a little bit citrusy. There’s a green varietal and a purple varietal. It also makes a nice addition to cocktails, which I’m in the mist of experimenting with.

I harvested a collection of backyard herbs — basil, mint, chives, and shies — and thought they would be a nice, light, refreshing addition to summer rolls. There’s a little cooking involved, poaching the shrimp and soaking the noodles, but otherwise it’s a non-cooked meal that comes together in minutes on a hot summer day.

And of course, you need a dipping sauce or two (or three) to dunk your summer rolls into. I made a trio: 1) fish sauce vinaigrette, 2) peanut sauce, and 3) fermented hot sauce. They all bring a little something different to the table. Unlike most renditions of these sauces I’ve had out, my versions are not overly sweet.

Happy Summer [Cooking/Eating]!

Summer Rolls with Shiso

Of course, summer rolls are completely customizable and adaptable. You can add any number of vegetables (e.g., julienned carrots, cucumbers) and/or proteins (e.g., pork, tofu). Here’s my version, but feel free to adapt as you see fit.

makes 1 dozen summer rolls

1 pound shrimp, poached 3 minutes, dunked into ice water bath, drain
12 Rice wrappers
4 ounces vermicelli noodles (I used these, because it’s what I had on hand)
Fresh herbs: shiso, Thai basil, mint
Chinese chives
Romaine lettuce, leaves roughly torn in half

Poach the shrimp: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Poach shrimp until cooked through and opaque, about 3 minutes. Immediately plunge into ice water bath. Drain and pat dry. Slice in half lengthwise.

Soften a wrapper: Immerse one wrapper in warm water until it softens, about 30 seconds. Lay flat on a clean work surface.

Fill the wrapper: Place two shiso leaves down the wrapper, just slightly to the left of center. Place piece of romaine lettuce on top, followed by a few herbs. Place some noodles on top. Place four pieces of shrimp, cut-side up, just adjacent to the herbs (as pictured above). Place a couple of long pieces of chives on top.

Roll up the summer roll: Fold the top of the wrapper over the filling. Fold the left and right sides over the shrimp and herbs. Continue rolling until it’s closed and snug. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.

Fish Sauce Vinaigrette

1/4 cup fish sauce
3 tablespoons lime juice
2 cloves of garlic, grated
1-inch ginger, grated
Drizzle of honey to taste
2-3 Thai chile, thinly sliced

Combine fish sauce, lime juice, garlic, ginger, honey, and chiles in a bowl. Add water to thin, about 1/2 cup.

Peanut Sauce

1/2 cup natural peanut butter
2 tablespoons low sodium tamari
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1-inch ginger, grated
1 clove of garlic, grated
Chopped peanuts for garnish
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes

Combine peanut butter, tamari, lime juice, sugar, ginger, garlic, and red chile flakes in a bowl. Add water to thin, until smooth, pourable consistency. Garnish with chopped peanuts.